Dog Walk! Dog Walk!! DOG WALK!!!
ADOBLO's DOG WALK
NOW COMES UP NEXT SATURDAY!!!
DATE: 6TH OF JUNE, 2015
TIME: 7:00am PROMPT.
VENUE: OGUN STATE VETERINARY HOSPITAL
COMPOUND ITA EKO.
ROUTE: From OGUN STATE VET. HOSPITAL, we go
towards Obasanjo House down to Ita Iyalode
Roundabout up through Ita Eko and back to Ogun state Vet. Hospital Compound.
We will highly appreciate your presence and that of your
dogs too.
OUR SPONSORS: UAC PRODUCERS OF BINGGO DOG
FOOD.
Lots of free gifts and light refreshments available after
the walk.
ADMISSION IS FREE!!!
......PRO ADOBLO (Association of Ogun Dog Breeders
and Lovers)
Woof! Woof!! Woof!!!
Tuesday, May 26, 2015
Monday, May 25, 2015
DOG WALK POSTPONED!!!
DUE TO THE CURRENT FUEL CRISIS IN THE COUNTRY, WE WOULD LIKE TO INFORM ALL DOG BREEDERS, LOVERS, HANDLERS ETC
OF THE
POSTPONEMENT OF OUR DOG WALK SLATED FOR 29TH OF MAY 2015.
A NEW DATE WILL BE COMMUNICATED TO US ALL SOONEST.
WE ARE DEEPLY SORRY FOR ANY INCONVENIENCES THIS MIGHT HAVE CAUSED.
PRO ADOBLO
Sunday, May 24, 2015
TRAINING YOUR DOG THE "SIT, STAND AND DOWN" COMMANDS.
Sit, Down and Stand
Once you have good focus, you can start to work on more complicated commands. The sit, down and stand can be taught by waiting until your dog takes the position naturally (generally, in a quiet setting), and marking and rewarding that behavior. Once the dog offers that behavior consistently, you can add the command. Say the command as the dog begins to take up the position at first, then try it before the dog is in position. In order to do this style of training, each position must be taught separately, you cannot begin a new exercise until you have the previous one on command.
Note: When you use a clicker, it is easiest to begin with if the clicker marks the correct behavior and the end of the behavior, so the dog is released before you feed. When you lure, you tend to feed the dog in position, so you need to release the dog explicitly with a release command such as "free" or "ok" to let the dog know that it is ok to break position. It is important to keep the dog's understanding clear as to when it is working and when work is completed.
You can also teach these exercises by luring. The problem with luring, is that you have to eventually fade the hand movement, and since dogs are more in tune to movement than sound, this can take a while. To teach the sit, a piece of food held over the head lifts the nose up, and the rear naturally drops down - say the command, as the dog takes up the position. To teach the down, close your hand around the food and drop your hand to the floor, to encourage the dog to take up the down position. Open your hand and feed the dog once in the correct position.
The stand can be taught by holding the food at nose level in front of the dog. If you hold the food with your palm facing upwards, begin with your hand close to the dog's nose and move your hand away from the dog, he will take a step forward and stand in order to get the food.
You can also teach these exercises by gently maneuvering the dog in to position with your hands, but again this "help" will need to be faded. Once you have a good sit in lots of different places, you could insist on the sit, by placing your hand under the dogs chin, and lifting so the dog has to sit. This is a mild form of compulsion and you may or may not want to do this. If you do not want to "back up" commands, you must spend a lot longer proofing them in different environments. This requires a good deal of patience. Very sensitive dogs will need the patience part of this, a willful puppy with a low desire for food may need more hands on training, and probably will not suffer for that. In gauging what you need to use, err on the side of less. More patience and more shaping lead to confident happy pups that like to work (until they get to that lovely teenage stage!).
Note: You may notice that I do not include "stay" as a separate training exercise. Since I always release, either by clicking to end or by saying "free", I don't actually teach stay as a specific command. When I teach a stationary exercise like sit, down or stand, I gradually extend the length of time I expect the dog to remain in position. I also vary the time (e.g. 30 seconds, 1 second, 5 seconds, 45 seconds, 10 seconds, and eventually out to several minutes in preparation for competition). Once I have built the time to around a minute, I begin to move around the dog. At first I take just half a step before releasing, and then begin to walk around the dog, staying close. I also like to move to the left side of the dog before I release. As a further clarification for the dog, if I expect the dog to remain in position, I will move my right leg first (e.g., "sit" and then walk off starting with my right leg). When I teach heeling later where I expect the dog to move with me, I will move my left leg first.
culled from www.schutzhund-training.com
Once you have good focus, you can start to work on more complicated commands. The sit, down and stand can be taught by waiting until your dog takes the position naturally (generally, in a quiet setting), and marking and rewarding that behavior. Once the dog offers that behavior consistently, you can add the command. Say the command as the dog begins to take up the position at first, then try it before the dog is in position. In order to do this style of training, each position must be taught separately, you cannot begin a new exercise until you have the previous one on command.
Note: When you use a clicker, it is easiest to begin with if the clicker marks the correct behavior and the end of the behavior, so the dog is released before you feed. When you lure, you tend to feed the dog in position, so you need to release the dog explicitly with a release command such as "free" or "ok" to let the dog know that it is ok to break position. It is important to keep the dog's understanding clear as to when it is working and when work is completed.
You can also teach these exercises by luring. The problem with luring, is that you have to eventually fade the hand movement, and since dogs are more in tune to movement than sound, this can take a while. To teach the sit, a piece of food held over the head lifts the nose up, and the rear naturally drops down - say the command, as the dog takes up the position. To teach the down, close your hand around the food and drop your hand to the floor, to encourage the dog to take up the down position. Open your hand and feed the dog once in the correct position.The stand can be taught by holding the food at nose level in front of the dog. If you hold the food with your palm facing upwards, begin with your hand close to the dog's nose and move your hand away from the dog, he will take a step forward and stand in order to get the food.You can also teach these exercises by gently maneuvering the dog in to position with your hands, but again this "help" will need to be faded. Once you have a good sit in lots of different places, you could insist on the sit, by placing your hand under the dogs chin, and lifting so the dog has to sit. This is a mild form of compulsion and you may or may not want to do this. If you do not want to "back up" commands, you must spend a lot longer proofing them in different environments. This requires a good deal of patience. Very sensitive dogs will need the patience part of this, a willful puppy with a low desire for food may need more hands on training, and probably will not suffer for that. In gauging what you need to use, err on the side of less. More patience and more shaping lead to confident happy pups that like to work (until they get to that lovely teenage stage!).
Note: You may notice that I do not include "stay" as a separate training exercise. Since I always release, either by clicking to end or by saying "free", I don't actually teach stay as a specific command. When I teach a stationary exercise like sit, down or stand, I gradually extend the length of time I expect the dog to remain in position. I also vary the time (e.g. 30 seconds, 1 second, 5 seconds, 45 seconds, 10 seconds, and eventually out to several minutes in preparation for competition). Once I have built the time to around a minute, I begin to move around the dog. At first I take just half a step before releasing, and then begin to walk around the dog, staying close. I also like to move to the left side of the dog before I release. As a further clarification for the dog, if I expect the dog to remain in position, I will move my right leg first (e.g., "sit" and then walk off starting with my right leg). When I teach heeling later where I expect the dog to move with me, I will move my left leg first.
culled from www.schutzhund-training.com
Friday, May 22, 2015
7 Days to ADOBLO's Dog Walk!!!
Dog Walk! Dog Walk!! DOG WALK!!!
ADOBLO's next DOG WALK coming up in 7 DAYS!!!
DATE: 29TH OF MAY 2015
TIME: 7:00am PROMPT.
VENUE: OGUN STATE VETERINARY HOSPITAL COMPOUND ITA EKO.
ROUTE: From OGUN STATE VET. HOSPITAL, we go towards Obasanjo House down to Ita Iyalode Roundabout up through Ita Eko and back to Ogun state Vet. Hospital Compound.
We will highly appreciate your presence.
OUR SPONSORS: UAC PRODUCERS OF BINGGO DOG FOOD.
Lots of free gifts and light refreshments available after the walk.
ADMISSION IS FREE!!!
......PRO ADOBLO (Association of Ogun Dog Breeders and Lovers)
ADOBLO's next DOG WALK coming up in 7 DAYS!!!
DATE: 29TH OF MAY 2015
TIME: 7:00am PROMPT.
VENUE: OGUN STATE VETERINARY HOSPITAL COMPOUND ITA EKO.
ROUTE: From OGUN STATE VET. HOSPITAL, we go towards Obasanjo House down to Ita Iyalode Roundabout up through Ita Eko and back to Ogun state Vet. Hospital Compound.
We will highly appreciate your presence.
OUR SPONSORS: UAC PRODUCERS OF BINGGO DOG FOOD.
Lots of free gifts and light refreshments available after the walk.
ADMISSION IS FREE!!!
......PRO ADOBLO (Association of Ogun Dog Breeders and Lovers)
Obedience Training...
B. O. T - Basic Obedience Training.
I saw a video recently on facebook that totally blew my mind and I was challenged and made up my mind that there's no way I wont be training my dogs from now on....would look for it and post here as soon as I can. Meanwhile, as a follow up to yesterday's post, we want to start posting a series on simple training for your dogs on obedience from www.schutzhund-training.com. Enjoy!...lol
Focus and Attention
First things first. The most important concept for your dog to master is good focus and attention on you, the handler. If your dog is small or a puppy, you may want to start sitting in a chair or on the ground. I use the dogs meals to teach this exercise. If the dog is hungry, this first exercise will be easier for you to teach. Place the food out of reach usually the dog will attempt to get at it, but eventually will give up because it cannot get the food. At some point in this process, the dog will look to you (for help, guidance, or out of frustration - it doesn't matter). As soon as the dog takes a step or looks towards you, press the clicker and immediately give the reward. At this point, they don't necessarily need to be staring into your eyes as long as they are acknowledging you are there. Gradually start to click only when they look at your face. Then vary the length of the look that gets the reward. The length of time needs to be variable, relatively short to begin with (1-3 seconds), then working out to a whole minute occasionally.
Note: Your goal is for a calm and intense stare, the dog needs to learn self-control, which combined with focus, will help you in your future training.
To test the dog's understanding of the exercise, hold a piece of food in your hand and show the dog, then hold it away from your body. If they understand the exercise, they know that looking at you releases the food while looking at the food does not. Do this exercise in a quiet place at first, then gradually take it outside the house, to a park, working up to a pet store which should provide plenty of distraction to make sure the dog has a good understanding of what is required.
It is important to remember that dogs are very specific in their understanding of situations, a command for sit in your living room with a biscuit in your hand is different to a command to sit at a busy pet store. This is why we need to take the dog to lots of different places, so that he can learn to generalize his reaction to a command. Also remember to do focus work with the dog beside you as well as in front. This will help with beginning the heel position. Once you are getting consistent eye-contact, you might want to add a command like "look" or "watch me".
culled from ...www.schutzhund-training.com
I saw a video recently on facebook that totally blew my mind and I was challenged and made up my mind that there's no way I wont be training my dogs from now on....would look for it and post here as soon as I can. Meanwhile, as a follow up to yesterday's post, we want to start posting a series on simple training for your dogs on obedience from www.schutzhund-training.com. Enjoy!...lol
Focus and Attention
First things first. The most important concept for your dog to master is good focus and attention on you, the handler. If your dog is small or a puppy, you may want to start sitting in a chair or on the ground. I use the dogs meals to teach this exercise. If the dog is hungry, this first exercise will be easier for you to teach. Place the food out of reach usually the dog will attempt to get at it, but eventually will give up because it cannot get the food. At some point in this process, the dog will look to you (for help, guidance, or out of frustration - it doesn't matter). As soon as the dog takes a step or looks towards you, press the clicker and immediately give the reward. At this point, they don't necessarily need to be staring into your eyes as long as they are acknowledging you are there. Gradually start to click only when they look at your face. Then vary the length of the look that gets the reward. The length of time needs to be variable, relatively short to begin with (1-3 seconds), then working out to a whole minute occasionally.Note: Your goal is for a calm and intense stare, the dog needs to learn self-control, which combined with focus, will help you in your future training.
To test the dog's understanding of the exercise, hold a piece of food in your hand and show the dog, then hold it away from your body. If they understand the exercise, they know that looking at you releases the food while looking at the food does not. Do this exercise in a quiet place at first, then gradually take it outside the house, to a park, working up to a pet store which should provide plenty of distraction to make sure the dog has a good understanding of what is required.
It is important to remember that dogs are very specific in their understanding of situations, a command for sit in your living room with a biscuit in your hand is different to a command to sit at a busy pet store. This is why we need to take the dog to lots of different places, so that he can learn to generalize his reaction to a command. Also remember to do focus work with the dog beside you as well as in front. This will help with beginning the heel position. Once you are getting consistent eye-contact, you might want to add a command like "look" or "watch me".culled from ...www.schutzhund-training.com
Thursday, May 21, 2015
DOG TRAINING....
Protection Training by Randall Hoadley
The purpose of this article is to gain an understanding of how a training director sees the dogs' attributes and his philosophy for training protection. He is looking at a dog that is ready to start formal training with blinds, escapes and call outs. This article expects that the dog already knows to bite, guard and out. This article should help to explain what he expects from the handlers and why he trains each part of the protection routine in a certain way.
"Before we start talking about dogs and drives let me explain how I see the three drives that I believe and train with at our club;
I believe in only three drives, "prey, defense and social," and the rest are just manifested from there. Prey drive - A reactive drive that is stimulus specific and can be satisfied. Behaviors include the urge to chase a moving object, pull it down, kill and eat it. Biting or eating can satisfy this drive. Defense drive - A reactive drive that is not stimulus specific and can be stimulated at anytime. Behaviors include the desire for self-preservation - fight or flight, growling or barking or running away. While in defense the dog can move forward as well
as backwards from the threat. Both actions can be defense; we just prefer one to the other. The adversary running away satisfies this drive. Social drive - the desire to stay with and obey orders from members of the pack.
Aggression/fight drives are just a behavior for me, not a drive in itself. I believe that aggression comes from the defense-prey mixture and/or social. These drives are innate to the dog. It cannot be removed from the dog and all dogs have them. These drives can be high or low depending on the type and nerve of the dog.
Read more after the cut...
The purpose of this article is to gain an understanding of how a training director sees the dogs' attributes and his philosophy for training protection. He is looking at a dog that is ready to start formal training with blinds, escapes and call outs. This article expects that the dog already knows to bite, guard and out. This article should help to explain what he expects from the handlers and why he trains each part of the protection routine in a certain way. "Before we start talking about dogs and drives let me explain how I see the three drives that I believe and train with at our club;
I believe in only three drives, "prey, defense and social," and the rest are just manifested from there. Prey drive - A reactive drive that is stimulus specific and can be satisfied. Behaviors include the urge to chase a moving object, pull it down, kill and eat it. Biting or eating can satisfy this drive. Defense drive - A reactive drive that is not stimulus specific and can be stimulated at anytime. Behaviors include the desire for self-preservation - fight or flight, growling or barking or running away. While in defense the dog can move forward as well
as backwards from the threat. Both actions can be defense; we just prefer one to the other. The adversary running away satisfies this drive. Social drive - the desire to stay with and obey orders from members of the pack.Aggression/fight drives are just a behavior for me, not a drive in itself. I believe that aggression comes from the defense-prey mixture and/or social. These drives are innate to the dog. It cannot be removed from the dog and all dogs have them. These drives can be high or low depending on the type and nerve of the dog.
Read more after the cut...
ASSOCIATION OF OGUN DOG BREEDERS AND LOVERS DOG WALK!!!
Dog Walk! Dog Walk!! DOG WALK!!!
ADOBLO's next DOG WALK coming up in 8 DAYS!!!
DATE: 29TH OF MAY 2015
TIME: 7:00am PROMPT.
VENUE: OGUN STATE VETERINARY HOSPITAL COMPOUND ITA EKO.
ROUTE: From OGUN STATE VET. HOSPITAL, we go towards Obasanjo House down to Ita Iyalode Roundabout up through Ita Eko and back to Ogun state Vet. Hospital Compound.
We will highly appreciate your presence.
OUR SPONSORS: UAC PRODUCERS OF BINGGO DOG FOOD.
Lots of free gifts and light refreshments available after the walk.
ADMISSION IS FREE!!!
......PRO ADOBLO (Association of Ogun Dog Breeders and Lovers)
ADOBLO's next DOG WALK coming up in 8 DAYS!!!
DATE: 29TH OF MAY 2015
TIME: 7:00am PROMPT.
VENUE: OGUN STATE VETERINARY HOSPITAL COMPOUND ITA EKO.
ROUTE: From OGUN STATE VET. HOSPITAL, we go towards Obasanjo House down to Ita Iyalode Roundabout up through Ita Eko and back to Ogun state Vet. Hospital Compound.
We will highly appreciate your presence.
OUR SPONSORS: UAC PRODUCERS OF BINGGO DOG FOOD.
Lots of free gifts and light refreshments available after the walk.
ADMISSION IS FREE!!!
......PRO ADOBLO (Association of Ogun Dog Breeders and Lovers)
SOME FACTS ABOUT OUR DOGS' DIGESTIVE SYSTEM.
SOME FACTS ABOUT OUR DOGS' DIGESTIVE SYSTEM.
Being carnivores the dog is adapted to eating meat...
1. Dog have 42 teeth on their powerful jaws which can hack but the cannot chew.
2. Dogs have few taste buds but they don't have much sense of taste.
3. They don't have digestive enzymes in their saliva so no predigestion.
4. They have very expandable stomach holding up to 8 liters in giant dogs, so they are adapted to large meals.
5. Their stomach acidity is much higher than in humans (digestion of bones and destruction of harmful bacteria ingested is made possible)
6. The length of their small intestine is between 2 - 6m depending on the size of the dog. The transit time through the small intestine is only about two (2) hours.
7. Despite the shortness of the large intestine (20 - 80cm), transit is very slow. This is where ingested food is fermented.
.....from "Everything You Need To Know About The Role Played By Nutrients In The Health of Dogs and Cats by Prof. Dominique Grandjean"
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)